The Molinos Valley

The Molinos valley stretches east from the edge of the village into the Alcornocales Natural park. Although the drover’s road here once went all the way to Jimena, it now only takes you to the head of the valley (about an hour’s walk from the village). Here a path continues path up into the hills to the old ruined mills that give the valley its name. There’s a sizable vulture roost in the rocky peaks at the far end of the valley. This makes it a good place to see Griffons all year round, but particularly when numbers are low elsewhere. As may be expected these low mountains are good for other raptors; Egyptian Vulture, Booted, Short-toed Eagle, Buzzard, Peregrine, etc. However, the real prize here is Bonelli’s Eagle. Although they can be elusive I’ve had more sightings here than anywhere else locally. It also holds Barn, Tawny and Little Owl whilst it’d hard to imagine some of those rocky bluffs don’t harbour the odd Eagle Owl! The valley also seems to be a natural funnel for migrants. Flocks of Bee-eaters, hirundines and various small passerines certainly seem to channel through here in good numbers. Indeed my only local records of Tawny Pipit, Great-spotted Cuckoo and Rock Sparrow have been here. In spring and summer Woodchat Shrike are abundant and Southern Grey Shrike occasional. Look out too for Black-eared Wheatear at the entrance to the valley as this is the most regular site that I’ve found for them in the area. Sardinian Warblers and Black Redstarts are common and Stonechat ubiquitous.

At the far end there’s a small venta which, despite serving indifferent coffee, is always packed at the weekends so might be worth exploring for lunch. (There’s also a large camp site here). Beyond the venta, the road rapidly degenerates into a rough track before it reaches an old gate and the track gives way to a footpath. After heavy rain the claggy clay here makes it almost impassable, but when dry this is a terrific walk. Look extra carefully at those Crested Larks here as some of them are actually Theklas! The path is tightly hemmed in by rocky extrusions to the left and a stream to the right, but fortunately the path is sandy here. The rocks to the left usually hold Blue Rock Thrush although they nest below the castle in the village, the birds here are often easier to see. As you reach an open area the clayey subsoil returns to make progress difficult after heavy rain. This isn’t a bad spot to stop for a picnic if you don’t want to walk any further. Look out for Cirl Buntings here.

However, if you want to go further then bear to the left of a large, incongruous Scots Pine and follow a narrowing path towards craggy topped hills. When you get high on the flanks of the hillside the path seems to be a dead-end, but if you look closely the path corkscrews and squeezes between rocks to take you to the narrowest of clefts in the rocks. This is a terrific spot to pause and admire the view. It’s also a place to ponder how many past generations have walked this way. Look carefully at the crags as I’ve had ibex here. The path then drops down towards the old water mills. This is an even better spot for a picnic! The path crosses the stream and continues upwards towards a forest road, but it becomes much less distinct here and this is as far as I’ve gone.